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The Directory › Europe › Denmark › Copenhagen
Plate II · ix · a · The City

Copenhagen

One entry in this city, and it is the whole reason to come: a building a sculptor made for his own work, and then was buried in the courtyard of.

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A Copenhagen canal-side street of tall narrow townhouses in cool northern twilight, wet cobbles
Plate II · ix · a · The Canals, July

A city that never seems to be showing you anything, and has quietly arranged the whole walk.

A day, properly arranged
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This is the day I actually had, in July, and would repeat without amendment.

The entries

One entry, visited, and the mark is filled.
An empty neoclassical gallery with deep ochre walls, plaster statuary and a patterned terrazzo floor
Interior · Thorvaldsens, ground floor

The colour on the walls does the work. Take it away and you have a store room; leave it, and every white figure looks like it was expected.

JULY, LATE MORNING
Notes for the city

One entry is not a thin page, it is an honest one. I have kept a single building in this city because a single building is what earned it, and I would rather send you to one house properly than to four in a hurry.

Go on foot. The museum sits by the water among government buildings, and the approach across the bridges is half the pleasure — arrive warm and slightly early rather than efficient and on the hour.

July was kind to it, which surprised me: I expected the summer crowd and found the rooms adequate rather than trampled. The afternoon is better spent out of the city entirely — Ordrupgaard is twenty minutes north, and I have not yet taken my own advice.

← Denmark Walked in July, and the ochre held up in full daylight. Charlottenlund →