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The DirectoryEuropeBelgiumAntwerp
Plate II · vi · a · The City

Antwerp

One entry, and it is the only workshop in this directory where the smell of the room is the thing you came for.

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A narrow cobbled Antwerp street of stepped-gable brick houses under flat grey light
Plate II · vi · a · The Old Quarter

A merchant city that never learned to perform for visitors, which is precisely why its one great house survives intact.

A day, properly arranged
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One entry makes a short day. Let it be a slow one instead.

The entries

One entry, visited, and kept without qualification.
Wooden type cases and blackened hand presses in a preserved printing house, cool daylight from a leaded window
Interior · The type room

Ink, oil and old paper. You notice it before you have looked at a single case of type, and you keep noticing it after you leave.

MID-MORNING, GREY LIGHT
Notes for Antwerp

Go at opening. Not for the crowds — the crowd here is entirely adequate at any hour — but because the rooms are dim by design, and the first hour of daylight is the only hour they were ever lit by.

Give it longer than the plan says. I went in expecting an hour of presses and came out most of the morning later, having read labels I had no business reading. It is a house as much as a workshop, and the domestic rooms are not the filler between the good bits.

The city itself asks nothing of you. It is a working port with a cathedral in it, the old quarter is small enough to cross on foot, and nothing about the afternoon needs booking in advance.

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